I.

Introduction

French Polynesia (French, Polynésie Française), “overseas country” of France, consisting of 35 volcanic islands and more than 180 low-lying coral atolls scattered over a wide area of the eastern South Pacific Ocean. The territory has a total land area of 4,167 sq km (1,609 sq mi).

II.

Land and Resources

French Polynesia is divided into five archipelagos: the Society Islands, composed of the Windward Islands and the Leeward Islands; the Tuamotu Archipelago; the Gambier Islands; the Tubuai Islands; and the Marquesas Islands. Clipperton Island, an uninhabited atoll south of the coast of Mexico, is also part of the territory. The Tuamotu Archipelago consists entirely of coral atolls and accounts for more than half of the territory’s islands. Mount Orohena on Tahiti is the highest peak in French Polynesia, with an elevation of 2,241 m (7,352 ft). The high volcanic islands have rich soils and support a variety of plant species. Coconut palms thrive throughout the territory. Wildlife on the islands is limited to birds, insects, and lizards; some residents maintain livestock, including pigs and chickens. Marine life is abundant in the surrounding waters and provides an important food source.

French Polynesia has a tropical but moderate climate, with an average temperature of 27º C (81º F). There are two distinct seasons: a warm rainy season from November to April and a cool dry season from May to October. The amount of rainfall varies greatly throughout the territory. The Marquesas Islands are the driest, and the Tubuai Islands are the wettest. Cyclones occur throughout the territory but with less frequency than elsewhere in the South Pacific.

III.

Economy

The leading exports are copra, vanilla, mother-of-pearl, and cultured pearls (in the mid-1990s French Polynesia was producing more than 95 per cent of the world’s supply). Subsistence activities include fishing and the culture of tropical fruits. Tourism, a growing business, is very important to the economy. Nuclear testing developed in the 1960s. The unit of currency is the CFP franc which, since January 1, 2002, has been tied to the Euro; as at early 2005, 0.77 Euros equalled US$1.

IV.

Population

The population of French Polynesia is 283,019 (2008 estimate), with an average population density of 77 people per sq km (200 per sq km). Tahiti is the principal island; its chief town, Papeete (population, 2007 estimate, 26,017), is the capital of the territory. The population is primarily Polynesian, with minorities of Chinese and Europeans. French is the official language, but various Polynesian languages are generally spoken.

Papeete is a cosmopolitan city with a strong Western influence; its residents enjoy French cuisine and eat mainly imported food. Most clothing and other goods are also imported, largely from France. By Pacific Island standards, the cost of living in Papeete and other urban areas on Tahiti is extremely high. On more remote islands, the lifestyle is much slower in pace with more subsistence activities. French national holidays are celebrated. Canoe racing and other water sports are popular. Tahitian music and dances have enthusiastic audiences.

V.

Government

The islands were annexed by France beginning in the 1840s. In 1958 a plebiscite was held, the islands voting for the status of an overseas territory within the French Community, a status which it held until 2003. Between 2003 and early 2004, the islands were classed as an overseas collectivity of France. However, in 2004 the islands were granted the new designation of “overseas country”, which gives an increased amount of autonomy to the territory. French Polynesia is governed by a 49-member territorial assembly, elected by universal adult suffrage, and is represented in both houses of the French National Assembly (see France: Government) and is also represented at the European Parliament.

VI.

History

Archaeological evidence suggests that the Marquesas Islands were settled around ad 300 by Polynesians from Tonga and Samoa. The western portion of the Society Islands was probably inhabited by ad 800. Significant European contact in the region began in 1767, when British explorer Samuel Wallis came upon what is now Tahiti. French navigator Louis Antoine de Bougainville followed soon after, and Captain James Cook arrived in 1769. Cook named Tahiti and called its surrounding islands the Society Islands after his sponsor, Britain’s Royal Society. The first European settlers in the area were members of the London Missionary Society who arrived in 1796.

In the early 20th century the port town of Papeete grew as the main economic, administrative, and religious centre. During World War II the island of Bora-Bora in the Society Islands became a refuelling station for United States forces. In 1946 the colony became an overseas territory of France and in 1966, France began a nuclear testing programme on uninhabited islands in the Tuamotu Archipelago. There were movements for greater autonomy throughout the 1970s and 1980s, resulting in several statutes that gave the territorial government more power. In the early 1990s Tahiti’s high prices and international anti-nuclear sentiment caused a serious decline in the tourism industry. In March 1996 the French government signed the South Pacific Nuclear-Free Zone Treaty, which banned nuclear testing in the region. The halting of testing caused widespread unemployment in French Polynesia, and France promised to contribute substantial economic aid over a period of years to help the territory diversify its economy.

The conservative government led by Gaston Flosse of the pro-autonomy Tahoeraa Huiraatira (People’s Rally for the Republic Party) came to power in 1982 and dominated the islands’ politics in the late 20th century. In February 2004 French Polynesia was granted the status of “overseas country”, which gave the islands increased autonomy, and Flosse became French Polynesia’s first president. Legislative elections were held in May, and Flosse’s party was ousted from power by a progressive coalition led by pro-independence candidate Oscar Temaru. However, less than five months later, amid much controversy, fresh parliamentary elections were held and Flosse restored himself as president. Temaru contested the vote and after a series of negotiations was returned to power in March 2005.

Public protests at the high cost of living in French Polynesia escalated in 2006. By the end of the year, Temaru had lost the support of his government and in December a vote of no confidence removed him from power. Gaston Tong Sang, of the Tahoeraa Huiraatira, succeeded Temaru as president, but faced a challenge to his presidency after just a matter of weeks in office, when Temaru attempted to pass a motion of no confidence against him. This first challenge to Tong Sang’s authority failed to gain sufficient backing; however, by August 2007 Temaru had gained enough support to call for a new vote of no confidence in parliament. Shortly afterwards, Tong Sang stepped down from office. Parliamentary elections held in September returned Temaru to serve a third term as president.