Dorset

I

Introduction

Dorset, county, southern England, bounded on the north by Somerset and Wiltshire, on the east by Hampshire, on the south by the English Channel, and on the west by Devon. The county is largely rural, with many fine views over the rolling countryside. The main centres of population are in the seaside resorts, but these are not so widespread as to have spoilt some of the most interesting coastal scenery in Britain. Its present geographical boundaries were created during the local government reforms of 1974, when a small part of Hampshire was added, bringing the heavily populated towns of Bournemouth and Christchurch within the county. Under a new round of local government reorganization, the boroughs of Bournemouth and Poole, on April 1, 1997, were administratively separated from Dorset (see Population and Administration below). However, the two remain part of the county geographically, and for ceremonial and related purposes. Dorset has a geographical area of 2,654 sq km (1,025 sq mi). Dorchester is the main administrative centre.

II

Land and Resources

The geographical county of Dorset is roughly diamond-shaped, and measures approximately 77 km (48 mi) from east to west, and 48 km (30 mi) from north to south. In the east most land is low-lying with extensive heathlands. The North Dorset Downs stretch across the centre of the county to beyond Dorchester. The South Dorset Downs, which in places reach heights of 275 m (900 ft), follow the coastline from Swanage to the west. Both these ridges consist of chalk uplands, and between them lie beds of sands and clays. North and west of the North Dorset Downs are the rich lands of Blackmore Vale, and the valleys of the rivers Stour and Lidden. The New Forest extends from Hampshire into the east of the county, in the region of Christchurch. North-east of Blandford Forum is Cranborne Chase, once an extensive royal forest, but now largely deforested, although some woodland survives.

The coast is varied. Near the eastern border with Hampshire is Poole Harbour, one of the world’s largest natural harbours. To the west of Poole Harbour lies the broad limestone peninsula known as the Isle of Purbeck. Continuing west along the coast, there are a number of cliff-lined bays, including the spectacular Lulworth Cove, near which is the limestone arch known as Durdle Door. The peninsula of the Isle of Portland juts out into the English Channel south of Weymouth and, with the addition of a number of artificial breakwaters, forms Portland Harbour. The southernmost tip of the limestone peninsula is known as Portland Bill. Chesil Beach, a wide bank of shingle, sometimes 12 m (40 ft) high, is separated from the mainland by a lagoon and stretches for more than 16 km (10 mi) from the Isle of Portland to Abbotsbury, where there is a famous swannery. The Dorset coast was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2001.

Dorset’s main rivers are the Stour, which rises in Wiltshire, and joins the Hampshire or East Avon near its mouth at Christchurch; the Piddle (sometimes known as the Trent) and the Frome, both of which flow into Poole Harbour; and the Yeo, which runs from the north of the county into Somerset, where it joins the River Parrett. Smaller rivers include the Cale and the Lidden (tributaries of the Stour); and the Char, the Brit, and the Bride, in the south-west of the county.

It is possible to walk the length of the Dorset coastline on the South West Coastal Path from the west side of Poole Harbour to the Devon border, just beyond Lyme Regis. The Countryside Agency has designated Cranborne Chase, the coast between Poole and Lyme Regis (excluding the Isle of Portland and Weymouth), the Purbeck Hills, and the downs of “Hardy” country as Areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty.

Dorset’s climate is generally mild. Average annual rainfall over most of Dorset is in the region of 750 to 1,000 mm (30 to 40 in), but rises to 1,000 to 1,520 mm (40 to 60 in) in some inland areas in the hillier west of the county.

III

Wildlife

Mute swans gather in huge numbers to live and breed at the Abbotsbury Swannery. Brownsea Island in Poole Harbour is largely owned by the National Trust, and is a wildlife sanctuary where red squirrels, sika deer, and many species of birds are resident; a large heronry is also maintained on the island. Seabirds and waders are also to be seen along the Purbeck Heritage Coast, which includes part of Studland Bay on the Isle of Purbeck; the reserve is also noted for lizards and butterflies. There is a marsh nature reserve at Christchurch. The Dartford warbler nests on Holt Heath, near Wimborne Minster, which is also home to the sand lizard, the smooth snake, the marsh gentian, and other rare creatures and plants.

IV

Population and Administration

Dorset as a whole has a population of about 692,700 (2001), of whom about 390,986 (56 per cent) live in the area administered by the county council. The remainder live in Bournemouth (2001, 163,441) and Poole (2001, 138,299). The largest town in the administrative county is Weymouth (with Portland, 1991, 46,065). Other towns of note include Christchurch (1991, 36,379), Blandford Forum (1991, 8,880), Bridport (1991, 11,667), Dorchester (1991, 15,037), Lyme Regis (1991, 3,851), Shaftesbury (1991, 6,203), Sherborne (1991, 7,606), Swanage (1991, 9,947), Wareham (1991, 2,454), and Wimborne Minster (1991, 15,274). Christchurch, Bournemouth, Swanage, Weymouth, and Lyme Regis are all popular seaside resorts. Lyme Regis was a medieval port, and is well known for its huge breakwater, the Cobb. The Roman port of Weymouth is now a ferry terminal, but has a good sandy beach; its other attractions include a bird reserve. Dorset has a large number of attractive villages, such as Okeford Fitzpaine, Alton Pancras, and Piddletrenthide—which stretches for some 5 km (3 mi) along the River Piddle, and claims to be England’s longest village. Dorset’s newest settlement is Poundbury, the “model community” being created by Charles, Prince of Wales, on the edge of Dorchester.

Until April 1, 1997, the county was administered by a county council and eight second-tier local government authorities: the four urban coastal boroughs of Bournemouth, Christchurch, Poole, and Weymouth and Portland; and the four rural districts of East Dorset, North Dorset, Purbeck (including the Isle of Purbeck), and West Dorset. However, on that date, the county’s two largest urban centres, Bournemouth and Poole, were separated administratively from the rest of the county, becoming the unitary authorities of the Borough of Bournemouth and the Borough of Poole. The councils of the unitary authorities are now responsible for all local government services, including those previously provided by the county council. The restructuring was a result of the recommendations made by the Local Government Commission, which was established under 1992 legislation to review the structure of local administration in England. The commission originally recommended that the county council should be abolished and the eight second-tier authorities be restructured into four new unitary authorities—Bournemouth, East Dorset, Poole, and West Dorset. However, the Secretary of State for the Environment, the government minister responsible for local government, subsequently decided that only Bournemouth and Poole districts would become unitary authorities. The rest of the county has retained the two-tier structure of county and district councils.

The police authority for the whole of the county is the Dorset Police, which has its headquarters at Winfrith near Dorchester. Crown Courts sit at Dorchester and Bournemouth.