Northumberland

I

Introduction

Northumberland, northernmost county of England, located in the extreme north-east of the country and bounded on the north and north-west by the Scottish Borders region of Scotland; on the east and north-east by the North Sea; on the south by County Durham and the unitary authorities of North Tyneside, Newcastle upon Tyne, and Gateshead; and on the west by Cumbria. Under the 1974 local government reforms, a small part of south-east Northumberland, including its coalfields, was incorporated into the newly created county of Tyne and Wear (subdivided in 1986 into the unitary authorities of Gateshead, Newcastle upon Tyne, and North Tyneside). The land area of Northumberland is now 5,033 sq km (1,944 sq mi), making it England's sixth largest county.

Since the loss of its industrialized south-east corner, the economy of Northumberland has been based predominantly on sheep-farming. Northumberland is renowned for its wild, rugged scenery; more than half the county consists of mountains, moorland, and forest. The county was part of the ancient kingdom of Northumbria, and its location on the Scottish border means that many battles have been fought on its soil—including the famous Battle of Flodden Field (1513). The preoccupation with defence is reflected in Northumberland's many great castles, and in the distinctive fortified houses known as “pele towers”.

II

Land and Resources

Northumberland consists of a large coastal plain rising in the north to the Cheviot Hills along the border with Scotland, and in the west to the Pennine Hills. The Cheviots are a steep, but rounded, range. They are composed of volcanic rock in the east, where the highest point, Cheviot Hill (815 m/2,676 ft), is located; the shale and sandstone of the western Cheviots form somewhat lower hills, and there are also extensive areas of peaty moorland. The northern Pennines make up the western side of Northumberland, ending just a little short of the Cheviots. They are characterized by heather-covered moorlands and narrow valleys, or dales.

The coastal plain is mostly limestone, covered with deposits of glacial material varying from light sands and gravel, to heavier clays and loam. A curious rock formation, the Whin Sill, extends from Bamburgh to the Farne Islands, a group of some 30 islets and rocks, off the coast. Holy Island, or Lindisfarne, a little farther north, is linked to the mainland by a causeway that is flooded at high tide. The greater part of the county's coastline, a region of sandy beaches, grasslands, and dunes, has been designated the North Northumberland Heritage Coast. However, there is a power station complex on the coast, at Blyth.

Hadrian's Wall (completed c. ad 130), which marked the northern boundary of Roman Britain, runs from east to west through the south of the county. Between this great monument and the Cheviots lies an extensive area of parkland and forest: the Northumberland National Park, the Border Forest Park, and Kielder Water and Forest. Opened in 1982, Kielder Water and Forest is the largest artificial lake and forest in northern Europe. There is an extensive military training area centred at Otterburn, which takes up 22 per cent of the Northumberland National Park. Public footpaths are closed when firing on the ranges is in operation, but are otherwise open.

The principal rivers of Northumberland are the north Tyne and the Rede, which deeply dissect the western Cheviots and join with the south Tyne near Hexham, to form the Tyne proper. The Tyne then flows eastwards towards Newcastle upon Tyne and the North Sea.

III

Climate

Northumberland's climate is cool, due to its northerly position and exposure to winds from the North Sea. The coastal area frequently suffers from sea fog. The average annual rainfall is in the region of 635-760 mm (25-30 in) on the coast and 760-1,000 mm (30-40 in) inland.

IV

Plants and Animals

The ruggedness and remoteness that has inhibited modern economic development in much of Northumbria has benefited the plant and animal life; species which have died out in more developed parts of northern England are still to be found in the county. The Farne Islands are a bird reserve with many species including puffin, different types of tern, and eider ducks. Hen harriers and merlin (see Falcon) are not uncommon. The islands are also known for their large seal colony. Northumberland is famous for its Chillingham cattle, a herd of wild white cattle, survivors of a breed that once roamed freely in the northern forests but are now confined to the grounds of Chillingham Castle. Sheep bred in the Cheviots include the horned Scottish Black Face and the Cheviot; the latter yields a particularly soft and pliable wool with excellent spinning qualities. The name “cheviot” has come to denote a woollen fabric of firm, crisp texture.