Quilting

Quilting, process of stitching together two layers of fabric on either side of an interlining of some soft substance (usually cotton) to form a kind of textile sandwich. The stitching held the interlining in place and also served as the basis for decorative designs. Quilted fabric is most often used to make a bed covering called a quilt, but is also used for clothing, upholstery, and decoration.

The top layer of a quilt bears a design, which is generally produced in one of three ways. The fabric may be left plain, so that the quilting stitches form the design. More commonly, the top is appliquéd: pieces are cut from various cloths and stitched on to a background fabric, in such a way as to form a pattern or pictorial design. The upper side of a quilt may also be pieced or patched by a process called patchwork: units of cloth are sewn together edge to edge to form a fabric with geometric patterns. The term “quilting” actually refers to the final stage of assembly, when the three layers (the upper side, the interlining and the underside), stretched on a frame, are sewn together with short running stitches, called quilting stitches. This final step is more than mechanical: the stitchwork artfully throws the design into relief, allowing the play of light and shadow to accentuate the outlines of the pattern.

Quilting originated in ancient times. In China, Russia, and Pre-Columbian Mesoamerica quilted garments were worn for warmth and protection. Crusaders from western Europe were introduced to quilting when they encountered Saracens in the Holy Land. Saracen foot soldiers wore straw-filled, quilted canvas shirts as a form of armour, and horsemen used quilted silk undershirts to prevent their armour from chafing. The Crusaders took the idea back to Europe and adapted it for nightwear and undergarments.

Written records of quilts date from the 12th century. Being made of perishable materials, few early quilts have survived. The earliest known example is an embroidered, coarse linen quilt dating from the 15th century. Most quilts of this period were made either by the quilting stitch or by appliqué. The earliest surviving patchwork quilt is the Levens Hall quilt, a 17th-century English example made of imported Indian chintzes. The high quality of the design indicates that it was not the first of its type. Fine quilting was done on coats, caps, and petticoats.

Dutch and English colonists brought quilting to America in the 17th century. The first American quilts were made by the appliqué method. It was the patchwork quilt, however, that reached its highest artistic development in the United States. As a result of scarce sewing materials and a need for artistic expression, pioneer women lavished great attention on ingenious geometric designs. Many quilts were signed and dated. Quiltmakers regularly exhibited their work at fairs and international exhibitions; prizes were awarded for the skills of quiltmaking and innovations in their design. Quiltmaking in the United States reached its apogee in the late 19th century. With the advent of inexpensive machine-made bed coverings in the early years of the 20th century, however, the tradition declined , except in rural areas. In the 1960s, interest in quilting—both as a handicraft and as an art form—revived. Traditional quiltmakers, especially in the southern United States, were encouraged to preserve their craft. Others learned quilting as a hobby. Quilting is now one of the most popular and creative forms of needlework.